This feature was written by Studio MSP writers. While some of our advertisers were sourced, no advertiser paid to be included.
A visit to the dermatologist isn’t what it used to be. In the past, booking an appointment meant a thorough skin check (gotta keep an eye on those moles!) or a conversation about acne topicals for your teen. And while those very important services will always be a major part of a dermatologist’s day-to-day, the skin care industry is changing at lightning speed—and local dermatologists are filling their proverbial toolboxes with exciting innovations and new ways to restore bounce, treat fine lines, and zap zits.
Today, a derm appointment might feel more like a spa day than a yearly chore. “A decade ago, I was mostly writing scripts, freezing spots, and giving pep talks about sunscreen,” says Dr. Mohiba Tareen, dermatologist and founder of Tareen Dermatology, which has nine locations across Minnesota and Wisconsin. “I still do all that, but now I also sculpt cheekbones, smooth foreheads, tighten jaws, and help patients look like the best version of themselves on Zoom and in real life. It’s not about changing faces—it’s about restoring confidence.”
Dr. Amit Mittal, dermatologist and founder of Mittal Dermatology in Plymouth, says that modern patients aren’t looking for a “quick fix.” Instead, they want “a road map to get from point A to point B. They want to understand their scans, set goals, and create plans,” he says. And in the modern skin health scene, that’s exactly what they’re doing.
“[Patients] want a road map to get from point A to point B. They want to understand their scans, set goals, and create plans.”–Amit Mittal, MD / Mittal Dermatology
Scan, Spot, Save
It’s been 20-plus years since Botox hit the market—and our obsession with aesthetic tweaks is only picking up speed, thanks to filtered feeds, quiet speculation, and a steady stream of innovations. Tareen says patients are much more knowledgeable than they were five years ago, largely thanks to TikTok, where buzzy procedures go viral right before your eyes. “Tech-savvy patients now walk in knowing what biostimulators and polynucleotides are,” she explains. (Biostimulators, often made from fish DNA, help stimulate collagen production.) They’ve seen these procedures on their screens and want to try them IRL—armed with research.
The way patients approach injectables has changed too, says Tareen. “Five years ago, everyone wanted ‘no wrinkles.’ Today, they want ‘natural, lifted, glowing—and no one to know I had anything done.’ They want treatments tailored to their face and lifestyle,” she adds. Patients in their 20s and early 30s are relying on “Baby Botox,” using small, targeted doses to help delay signs of aging. They’re also starting younger than in years past. Older patients, meanwhile, are stacking lasers, injectables, and collagen boosters for a youthful refresh. Men, too, are getting in on the action; she says male patients are looking for “subtle, natural results” from their visits.
That interest in low-key, science-backed treatments includes one that’s newly available locally: microneedling with salmon skin—a “current obsession” of Tareen’s. “Salmon skin is packed with antioxidants, omega-3 fatty acids, and polynucleotides that help calm inflammation and jump-start repair. It’s basically a skin smoothie delivered via microneedles.” Mittal is excited about the re-emergence of mushroom and fungi therapy, which, he says, “offers anti-aging benefits and is particularly well-suited for people with sensitive skin,” as well as those looking for a “natural alternative to synthetic skin care ingredients.”
AI is showing up at the dermatologist’s office, but not in the way you might think. Dr. Brian Zelickson, a dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in Edina and Plymouth, says it has become “integral” to the practice, especially for diagnostics. “AI algorithms trained on vast image libraries now can assist in identifying skin cancers (notably malignant melanoma), psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and fungal infections,” he explains. “These tools are getting better and can be integrated with smartphone apps, which hopefully can enhance early detection and patient education.” At Mittal’s practice, a device called FotoFinder Automated Total Body Mapping Master has helped him catch skin cancer “really, really quickly”; he describes it as “an automated way to scan your entire body for moles and track every single spot from appointment to appointment.”
“AI algorithms trained on vast image libraries now can assist in identifying skin cancers, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and fungal infections.” –Brian Zelickson, MD / Schweiger Dermatology Group
The Off-Camera Work
Many dermatologists are doing more cosmetic procedures, but that doesn’t mean they’ve given up on their bread and butter. “Dermatology is not just skin cancer and cosmetics,” says Dr. Audrey Jacobsen, a dermatologist at Hennepin Healthcare. She says “the vast majority” of her patients are people with chronic skin problems like psoriasis, acne, eczema, and “really, really severe stuff” that may even require hospitalization.
Sometimes the least-glamorous treatments make the biggest impact. Thanks to new FDA approvals for hard-to-treat skin conditions, Jacobsen says helping patients has gotten a whole lot easier. (These approvals don’t come quickly—some take years.) “In the past, we would have old-school medications to lower your immune system with all these side effects…that you had to monitor,” she explains. “Now we’re getting more awesome, targeted medications for specific skin conditions.” Jacobsen is excited about new treatments for eczema, which she says have been “absolutely life-changing for patients,” and a new FDA-approved medication for skin lupus, an autoimmune disease that causes rashes.
Zelickson agrees. “New and improved biologic drugs continue to transform the management of chronic inflammatory skin diseases,” he says, noting that at the 2025 American Academy of Dermatology meeting, data on the medications risankizumab (AKA Skyrizi) and bimekizumab (Bimzelx) for psoriasis were highlighted, “demonstrating sustained efficacy and safety.” Another approved medication to know is nemolizumab (Nemluvio), which offers relief for patients with chronic itch.
Lasers have become a dermatology standby, used for everything from anti-aging to treating acne. (Ask any adult—acne rarely follows the rules of age.) Zelickson says that new, acne-centric lasers like AviClear and Accure have been FDA-cleared to treat acne, which is especially intriguing for patients who are reluctant to try a medication like Accutane. To help reverse the effects of acne scarring, he likes the ablative laser UltraClear.
Mittal is a fan of “microdosing” Accutane to help treat acne and give skin a glow. The medication, which has long been the gold standard for treating stubborn breakouts, comes with notorious side effects, but taking a super-small dose can help mitigate dryness and sun sensitivity while shrinking zits—sometimes for good.
More intense skin treatments, like CO2 laser resurfacing, now require much less downtime, says Tareen. “It used to be two weeks of downtime, redness, and pain,” she says. Now, with exosome therapy to support repair and reduce inflammation, patients bounce back in days—so you can continue to bank up those precious PTO hours.
The Skin You’re In…During Menopause
Perimenopause and menopause come with a list of changes and challenges, including some you can see in the mirror. According to Tareen, estrogen takes a “nosedive” during menopause, which can lead to thin, dry, crepey skin. Others may experience acne and facial hair due to shifting hormones. She recommends noninvasive treatments like microneedling, laser resurfacing, and skin tightening to boost collagen and elastin production, plus strategically placed neuromodulators and “a kiss of filler” to lift and plump where needed.
Preventative care can also help slow the process, says Zelickson. “Start early with good habits: daily sunscreen, a solid moisturizer, and gentle skin care,” he advises. “Avoid smoking, eat a diet rich in antioxidants, and don’t be afraid to talk with your dermatologist about starting retinoids before those changes really set in.”
Wrinkles and fine lines often appear in your 30s, with signs of aging—like thinning, sagging, and age spots—becoming more pronounced in your 50s.
“Think of your 30s and 40s as prep school for menopause,” says Tareen. “Start protecting your collagen now like it’s gold—because it kind of is.” This means sunscreen every single day, even when it’s cloudy; a skin care routine packed with “retinoids and antioxidants”; and staying out of the sun.
“Look for ingredients like retinol, niacinamide, and vitamin C, as these are collagen-boosting MVPs,” she continues. Just be sure to start with a gentle retinoid and work your way up to reduce irritation—with the guidance of your derm, of course.
“Think of your 30s and 40s as prep school for menopause. Start protecting your collagen now like it’s gold—because it kind of is.” –Mohiba Tareen, MD / Tareen Dermatology
The Power of Preventative Care
If you’ve only visited the derm when you had an issue—an eczema flare-up, pesky chin zits, a suspicious-looking mole—you’re not alone. But these days, patients are taking a proactive approach to their skin.
“We’re seeing more patients interested in preventive skin checks and cosmetic treatments earlier in life, not just coming in when there’s a problem,” says Zelickson. “This interest in preventative care seems to be due to the increased incidence and awareness of skin cancers and skin aging.” Mittal notes that skin care has become a family affair. “Women often drive what everybody does in the family when it comes to health care,” he says. “They’ll come in for their skin check and realize all the new tools that are out there, and that becomes a gateway for them to create solutions for their partner, as well as their kids.”
One of the easiest ways to prevent premature aging and skin cancer is with sunscreen, and if you haven’t made it an essential part of your daily routine, there’s no time like the present to start. “I would be a bad dermatologist if I didn’t harp on sunscreen, long-sleeve shirts, all those things,” says Jacobson. “Even though we have long, dark winters in Minnesota, we still have a pretty high rate of skin cancer and melanoma in this state.”
This article originally appeared in the August 2025 issue of Mpls.St.Paul Magazine.
Print Advertisers
My Dermatologist, Inver Grove Heights, mydermtc.com
Dermatology Specialists, Edina, dermspecpa.com
link